By the side of the San Juan River flowing cold and spring-summer-melt fast in Pagosa Springs, we walk past the nearby sulphurous foul-egg-smelling scents of the hot springs by the road and river’s edge. The hot, steaming water runs from out the side of the bank above the river, flowing from one shallow, hard-rock pool to another. There are about five pools, seemingly man-made or assisted, in which we sit with grey sediment and test the temperatures—the top one’s very hot, the next one not so bad, and then eventually a spot opens up in the ones right by the river’s edge where we can lean against the flat rocks and find a spot that feels just right, goldilocks-like, between the heat of the slowly-flowing spring, tricking in, and the cold, once-mountainous water of the river’s edge, with only a semi-porous wall of rocks between.