We’re driving north to see some wildflowers, so we stop in at Yanchep National Park, and I can’t drive past a sign that says ‘Koalas’. I have never seen one. And one is all there is, sleeping, docile, stirring slightly in a eucalypt, not too far above eye level on a little walkway they have made. He is a light grey; all alone, it seems. And bigger than I thought.