Author Archives: jbstubley

Australia Day Shags

There is a tuart tree near the base of the limestone cliffs above the river in North Fremantle where all the cormorants sit—-a couple of trees. Beneath them, the rocks and other plants are white with their droppings. They roost in their tree, sometimes black and white, sometimes all black, sometimes small, sometimes large, a few moving away during the day or night maybe, but in the evening, when I usually see them, the tree is full. The cormorant tree. Shags as they are sometimes called. Phalacrocorax (mostly melaneleucos, perhaps the odd varius, orsulcirostris maybe). Kakak. Midi. Koordjikit. Their tree, partway down the cliff. 

But not this last Australia Day, when around evening time we took a walk along the clifftop and saw the bend in the river full, the sandbar crowded…with boats. Boats and loud music and flags. A kind of celebratory cacophony. Australiana. We walked along, and I tried not to make any judgments, nor hold too many opinions, but just observe, which today meant also listening. And as we walked through this unusualness, or usualness brought to the surface, one thing did strike me as more unusual than the rest of the unusual-ness. And that was almost all the cormorants who usually sat in ther tree roosting, were this day in the air and circling. Not sitting in their tree, not flying to or away from it, but circling in the air around it. Not landing, but instead looking uncertain, the silence of their mostly silent perch now broken. 

We walked on, and further along the path I saw two black swans who, usually on slightly busier weekends when a handful of boats are moored by the cliffs, swim from one boat to another and look for food. But this evening, even they stayed away. 

We took a more inland track when we walked back, and later that night, amongst all the news items of the day—including a tree branch falling on some people in Kaarta Gar-up Kings Park (and with this I was reminded of an earlier year Australia Day plane crash into the river)—I saw footage of a brawl of younger men upon the sandbar; young men ankle deep and fighting. Testing something maybe. Testing themselves. Testing each other.

There was a story shared by an Aboringal friend about this place during a Perth Festival event some years ago. It featured young men and testing. Tunnels. Water. There was more. 

But I can’t help thinking of those cormorants. And shadows. When something isn’t seen truly then all we have are shadows. Shadows of cormorants circling. Shadows on the sandbar, brawling. The water’s surface reflecting a higher light above. 

Dolphins on the Sandbar

Arriving at the turning of this river this day, where the sandbar has been made with the flowing in and flowing out of tides, we find a splashing of water, a flying-hopping of pelicans, a movig dark cloud under the water where the white of the sandbar should be. And then we see the fins coming up through the water, many fins, tails too, a foaming and a thrashing, and soon, fish flying through the air. There are no seagulls in the fray, no crested turns spotting above. It is just a barely-moving throng of dolphin, pelican and mullet, probably. The dolphin fins move above the water, resembling the movement of sharks—about 11 fins in total—but only because the water is so shallow. A few days ago there was a brawl of young men here as part of ‘Australia Day’ celebrations. But today the dolphins, with the mullet and the pelicans, are taking it back. Brawling in their own way; passing though a real life and death moment. Some of the dolphins are right in the middle of the fray, pushing the pelicans out of the way as they pass through at speed, or turn and thrash about. One or two other fins sit a bit further away. And eventually a smaller group moves off, a mother with calf that jumps through the air landing upside down, full white-pink belly showing. They go with another, making a pod of three, leaving a further seven or eight in the slowly swirling mass behind. Every now and then a dolphin will shoot out to the side, or shoot back in, moving swiftly through the water, its fin showing, unable to dive any lower. And then in one sploshing moment, a fish—poor mullet presumable-–is hoisted by the flicking tail of a dolphin through the air for some metres to land with a splosh, lucky not to land in the open mouth of one of the two pelicans, which come flapping-spearing in with their beaks, trying to pick the odd one off.

“They’ve been there for an hour and a half,” a fellow watcher says. “The fish aren’t moving much,” I say, “I guess they’re frozen stiff.” “Stunned mullet,” my wife offers. We walk a little further on, and come across another watcher further up the cliff. “Did you see that one go flying through the air?” he asks, as another does the same. “I’ve never seen them do this here, only in the Murray.” I’ve seen them do similar things with fish (though not the tail flick) by rocks just upriver and downriver, but never on the sandbar, where I have seen them cross without diving, but not coralling-hunting like this—a kind of circling and then a shooting through. The pelicans seem to get pushed further out. Some seaguls flap around, turns begin to circle as a small dinghy anchors nearby to watch, and the kayak paddlers stroke a little closer. Everyone is watching. We move further downriver and see some nankeen night heron pushing further south, but everything else seems a little less…well…spectacular. We tell some others about it. They move to Harvey Beach and watch with us at water level, an hour after we first saw them, the fins still protruding above the surface: fins protruding, tails protruding, everything that usually belongs to the up-down movement of the depths risen to stay for longer stretches this day on a frothing foaming surface—the same as Australia Day brawling maybe—though perhaps with a little more purpose…(though I won’t say ‘porpoise’).

Driving to the Lake 

I found myself driving today through a less-visited (by me) landscape to get to another lake. I’d been there before, but maybe not at this time of day, this day of the week, this week of the year. Two days after so-called ‘Australia Day’, warm but not hot, a Sunday morning, and hundreds, thousands of walkers striding along the limestone beachside clifftop, ouring one way and the other. The road busy too. Houses on the other side, a cafe or two, very few trees. A south westerly breeze already sliding in. I kept going past suburbs also mostly treeless, pockets of bushland, rooftop tiles lining the horizon. I moved onto larger roads, drove over a freeway, detouring big box stores to come at the lake from the eastern edge, trying to drive its shoreline, but finding more houses, fenced off areas, though there were spots here and there for walkers and bikers. I emerged from a series of cul-de-sacs and took a busy road around, by the edge of another busy road, circling the lake’s northern edge, then coming down it’s western side, more open grassland and trees, into the edge of a small city, through more houses, and eventually a kind of park on its western edge. I had been there before a couple of times. I parked and walked to a little jetty and looked out at the water, the sea breeze stronger now, the water cleaner than the lakes I usually visit, able to see the sandy floor. I watched a coot go down and rise up. A swan swam underneath me. A loud ‘poing’ of a dark-coloured musk duck came from a large group of about 15, circling and sometimes flapping together, mostly males with their large flaps under their beaks, sitting low on the water with tales like platupi; a dozen other males here or there. Some crested grebes sat upright with lighter feathers, their heads a mix of regality and ruffled-ness. Some other grebes with Pacific black ducks—almost archetypal ducks. Some pelicans further away. Wood ducks on the bank behind the paperbarks. I chatted with a man and his wife, talking about the lake, the ducks, his experience swimming iat the ocean nearby when a bird came up next to him. “Cormorant?” “Could’ve been.” They moved off and I turned my attention back to the lake. 

And then I was suddenly struck by a deeper level of that place, faint at first, like an initial trickling line, speaking at a deeper level in me. I tried to listen. It rose and thickened like the rising of the lake after first rains, filling out, filling up. The spirit of this place. I  listened and let it in, silencing all else, giving it my lowest levels of attending. It was like a kind of breathing on another level. And I kind of let go an inner sigh. The hour long drive had been worth it. The place opened itself up, spread itself out like the lake that it was. The largest lake around. And I went with it, trying to stay awake. It seemed in that moment somewhat feminine in quality. Unlike the lake I visit most often. Though maybe not related so much to birthing of things, like other lakes I’ve been. Though still a kind of femininity to the essence of this place. I know a small part of the stories, and the imagination of its name. And these stories seemed to ring true enough this day—in what the lake was saying, in what I was able to hear. And I was grateful.

I walked away from the water, along its bank towards a trail sign, then up the hill to a statue of a woman, which seemed in place, right enough, and true. 

And I reflected that my experience of the journey this day told enough the journey we make each and every day towards truth. We venture off towards a goal we feel somehow called to, but maybe not quite sure we’ll make, nor whether it might be worth it—after all, there are so many other things to do. But despite all this we go anyway, maybe not yet knowing even why, and pass through certain places we might not feel at home; slightly unfamiliar or uncomfortable places, upon which we might throw all sorts of judgments and opinions. But all of this is merely preparation. Preparation for a getting closer. For a kind of letting go. Maybe we realise we’d even been to this place before, but hadn’t necessarily seen it in this way. The smallest door. The smallest resigntion. And a whole river of water can come flooding in. Opinions and judgements left behind. We wake up inside the essence of something—the truth of the matter—and find that essence inside. We find ourselves also in such moments. And find ourselves forever changed. And I think the same is true of the place, of the essence or the truth we discover—also changed—in those times, on those days

The path to reality passes through personal judgement and opinion, but on arriving there, those things do not matter. Reality matters. We find it in ourselves, and we find ourselves in it. This is the real striving behind science. Though we are much more involved and essential to the process than we often admit.

I then drove the freeway back through the city, the lake and country with me, still having to return home. I sat on cruise control watching the other cars, the large trees by the side of the road, a raptor—harrier maybe—gliding between the rooftops of big box stores, the roadworks resting there this day, the lane lines constantly changing with the widening of the freeway. I wound slowly through the city, still with the lake and country, along the windswept river by the side of the road, refuelling on the edge of the highway, taking a straghtline home.

Summer Here is like the Far Northern Winter

I see that in far-northern-hemisphere winters the rivers narrow and recede. I imagine it’s because of the freezing of water further up, and the rain turning to snow. In the far north, rivers ‘dry out’ in winter. Here, of course, it’s the summers that bring the thinning—dry earth baking under the southern sun. Here the rivers dry in summer—which is that same time as winter in the far north. Summer here is the far northern winter, and vice versa, with rivers in these places all drying out at the same time on earth. 

But it’s not just the rivers. Extreme heat and extreme cold carry similar challenges. We stay inside in the heat of the day; those in the north in the cold of the night, or the cold of the day. In summer, so much here is dying, dead, hibernating. In the north, that’s the quality of winter. Here, in autumn and (to an extent) winter, then spring, we come out again (though some stay out in summer), when things are greener. Like the way the north comes out in summer. 

Yes, there are polarities and balancing; but also, strangely, we’re often doing the same things at exactly the same time.

Australia Day 2024

Blue singlet, thongs and shorts. King browns in the back of a ute, when the back of the ute was still legal. Aussie Aussie Aussie. ‘80s Australian rock on the stereo, repeat. Foreshore picnics, swimming in the river under exploding cordite. Been there, done that.

Are we coming up from the surface or from the depths? I guess it depends on which end our head is.

These days there are less flags on cars. Less call and responses. Survival Day. Invasion Day. Surveys and responses. Cricket captains ask to change dates. Footballers. Commentators say: “The national day. It’s many things to many people. Whatever it is for you I hope you’ll enjoy a day of test cricket.” 

We look for meaning where we can. Meaning is found wherever the spirit is active. What we celebrated before was meaningless. Desperation. Ironic without knowing it. 

The word that comes to mind now when we talk about this day, this idea of one country, is: confusion. But the journey to new understandings and insights passes through the door of not knowing. There is some road to travel yet.

The Colours of Summer

Recently I’ve seen the tea tree flowers all twisted and circling, white and lightly scented, with bees. I’ve seen the paperbark begin their march to a seemingly early opening of similar flowering. I’ve seen the towering canopy of marri trees, all white and powder coated, starlike in the day. I’ve seen the red of what I assume are yorgums opening bright and forcefully. And I’ve seen the yellow of illyarrie pushing through their fiery caps also seemingly early.

I’ve seen the colours of birak—the first summering. The white of the too-bright light of this city. The red of the warmth of this place, firelike and flaming. The yellow of the inbetween-ness, of a more-evening sun gently setting, more like the next season seeping in.

The Shoreline is Death

Today at the lake I watch the ever shrinking high-water mark—birak summertime heading towards later summer boonaroo and autumn. The swamphens are walking the northern end of the remaining main-water pool, the moorhens are stalking the line on the easter side, pecking away as their tails flick. The stilts are in the slightly deeper water, their long legs like sticks. A couple of coots are slightly further south, beyond a reed bed, working the shoreline there. Pacific black ducks, pink ears, wood ducks and maybe a couple of teals are out in the slightly deeper water that’s left, where they can paddle still. A lone seagull sits and watches a black duck pass by. A couple of crakes are up on the dryer ground with some buff-banded rails nearby. Three pairs of swans sit in place in shallower areas, or move slowly through a deeper water place. Correllas stick to the dryer shore to the south end, or in the trees above, noisy as usual. Behind, there are white tailed black cockatoos in the trees. 

And suddenly, as I’m watching this calm Thursday morning, cool-day almost full-moon scene, the swaphens in one cloud start flap-running their way east into the nearby rushes and reeds; the crakes and rails go with them, disappearing between the separate branches in the shadows and shade; the stilts hop-fly into the centre of the lake; the moorhens and coots step off the shoreline edges and shift to deeper waters; the ducks in a couple of species-clouds do the same; the seagull has vanished; the corellas lift off into clouds and circle around the trees to the south; and in all the visial whirling I hear the yapping little bark of the stilts, the gutteral-turned-higher pitch craw of the hen, the short quacks of the ducks, the slightly higher screech of the coot and moorhens. And all the while I’m moving out from under the paperbark and eucalyptus limbs where I’ve been standing, sheltering from the cooler wind and morning sun. I’m moving slightly south, and looking up, but seeing nothing. The birds keep on moving in the shoreline scene below me. I walk out further, opening up the sky, and wait. And then, before much longer: the stretched, circling wingspan lengths, all brown and orange, of a swamp harrier gliding overhead. He makes a turn, wheeling around, barely needing to flap. I look out again as he circles back behind the tree. The birds left in the centre of the lake are still, and watching intently. The disappeared ones in the reeds are disappeared still. The swans have stopped their preening, watching, but haven’t yet moved. Nor has a white Ibis I now see on the shoreline. And nor has a white faced herron now moving obviously on grey branch towards the centre of the lake. The whole scene seems to pause a little longer, the harrier comes around again. Nobody moves, except the screeching swirling corellas further south. And then…gradually…he seems to have gone. The whole frozen moment eventually, slowly, slipping into movement again. 

The birds in the centre begin to spread out again, the stitls pick up their legs and begin to walk away. The ducks start to paddle apart, each their own species way. The swans resume their preening pruning. The moorhens and coots slowly spread back towards the muddy high-water mark. The corellas screech a little less, and start to settle back upon the ground. The heron resumes his stillness, the ibis moves a little, the swamphens return from the reads and begin to spread, while the rails and crakes take a little longer.

And I’m struck by the directions of it. The way so many that just a moment ago were on the shoreline—on the high water line—shifted quickly either to centre or periphery. That is where the life went: to the shallows or the depths. Nothing stayed on the shoreline (except the bigger  ibis). Life contracted or expanded: moved to the middle, or to the edges went. Life moved away from the shoreline, from where a moment before it was feeding—it moved away from this. Life moved away from the shoreline, because here and now, the shoreline, even at this life-filled lake, meant death.

Dolphins Breathing, Rising

From the top of nearby hill we see first one fin then another then several—seven—rising up then going under, peeling off from the southern edge of the sandbar below, moving diagonally downriver into deeper water. We watch them rise, invdividually, collectively, for a while. Then we scamper slowly, unrushed, down the limestone edge of the hill, moving through balga and tea tree, until we get to the road below, following it downhill to the river’s edge, flanking the water police, and moving slowly along the jetties, keeping one eye on the surface of the river. We walk all the way to the final jetty by the hotel, and still see no sign of them. We walk right out to the end of the boats, looking upriver and down, the wind here choppy and blown, and still no sign of them. I think I see a moving dolphin-sized bubble blown under water at one point, but nothing emerges. We walk back the way we came, resigned to what we’d seen already today. 

And then, as we get beyond the hotel to the apartments upriver, we see a rising in the calmer waters closer to shore. And then another. But, for the first time I think I’ve ever seen, the rising is not followed by a going under. The dolphins have come up and are floating. They sit above the the water, one or two even raise their heads up higher and look around. What are they looking at or for? Humans? Here in the calmer water of the jetties are dolphins on the surface water, floating, resting, looking around. Here are creatures of the depths that rise, coming up to the surface, going that far, then looking even higher.

Kooli and Quenda

I watch quenda the southern brown bandicoot work his way through the sword sedges, and down onto the lush green ground cover covered with small blue flowers and the low-down working of bees. He moves along, burying his long-thin snouty nose and front feet in one spot after another, little ears listening, going down for the good dirt, digging. His fur is all brown and hair, smooth though made up of hundreds of finer points. He hops along like a little kangaroo, though more bent to the ground, stretched out along it, cultivating.

And from the edges of my observing I see kooli the buff banded rail emerge from where he so often figures from. His back all turtle patterned and brown, his underside a kind of zebra patterning, his chest and eye a sort of rusted orangey-brown, what the birders call ‘buff’. He moves along, occasionally flicking his tail as he pushes his beak into place after place along the soil of the dryer bank by the rushes. His feathers are all neatly folded over one another, giving him the patterning and colours, feather-ends all rounded and fine, each tip planted within his skin. 

And I watch him, kooli, and quenda the bandicoot get slowly closer in their foraging, until they are about to cross directions, about 30 centimetres apart. And I wonder who will make way for who. And then, at the same moment, they both hop a little past each other and away, keeping their distance, neither advancing towards the other, a kind of mirroring of one another’s movements. 

And I can’t help wondering about the forming of each on this the edge of the lake, here at the edge of the world. The dry lake shoreline of birak summertime has fashioned from out of its edges these two creatures, one a bird, one a mammal, though so similar in their workings, in their doings—as if there hovered above each a kind of bright shadow, out of which one day one was fashioned, out of which the next day the other. A kind of lake shoreline cultivation shadow, condensing into quenda, condensing into kooli, the way ice condenses from water into different forms; same water; each coming from the same spring; a common languaging before it fell into these here terms. Quenda the southern bandicoot. Kooli the buff banded rail.

Archetypal Swamp Hen

I watch as the swamphen walks his recently dried-out lake shoreline border. He is the most obvious bird that’s left. A black-blue purple, with red beak, hen sized, singing up the will-filled depths, tail flicking as he walks the shoreline with large splayed-toed unwebbed feet, the now-cracked bed littered with its prints. I watch him at the borders of the grass and faintest high-water line, still wet, most recent; the whole thing shrinking. It looks like his domain. A guardian of a kind of threshold. One of the few, maybe the only watery bird, who stays. 

But then in the clump of maleleucas, on which used to be a kind of island, I see a small flitting and a rushing, as one bird chases another, just a couple of shadows, then disappearing behind another clump. Then out they shoot again, and I see they’re crakes, probably spotted, but they’re so far away. Like a smaller version of the swaphen—a smaller version in and out of branches and shrubby trees. A smaller version of the bird who stays. And I’m reminded too of the buff-banded rail. All belly striped and buff/orange colourings, slightly bigger than the crake, but stopping short of the swaphen. Another shoreline bird who stays, but masked and masking within the reeds and rushes and the shade. The rail another kind of version of this archetypal shoreline birding. The moorhens and the coots step into the water more often than not, swimming; and leave with the water. Not the swamphen, and now I’m wondering maybe too the crake and rail. But what they each seem to announce is an archetypal shoreline lakeside bird. A bird that gives these three forms for this place, but given different places, different plants and lakes and waters, generally a different context, would produce different birds. Like the native black tailed hen. Like a million other other-place variations. 

Like Goethe’s archetypal plant with an infinite amount of potential manifestations, so too the lakeside threshold bird. The lakeside threshold hen.